2008 Pointe Shoe Guide

November 28, 2001

What’s In A Pointe Shoe?

Pointe shoes are made in a complex process requiring multiple steps and great expertise. Although each manufacturer uses some unique methods and designs, most pointe shoes share a basic structure and set of components. The uppers, or the body of the shoe, are sewn from several pieces of satin, often with a cotton lining. In a traditional pointe shoe, the toe box is created on the uppers from multiple layers of paste and burlap. “The layers depend on where we want the most support or flexibility,” explains Marlena Juniman, vice president at Prima Soft. Some manufacturers also use paper or plastic layers.

A typical sole has three components: the outer sole, the insole and the shank. Traditional shanks are made of cardboard (such as red board or green board), fiberboard or leather. Greater or lesser strength is achieved by: choice of material, layering, skiving (making thinner toward the heel) or cutting out or shaping areas where more flexibility is needed. The shank is sandwiched between the outer sole and the insole, using glue and nails.

Gaynor Minden pointe shoes, in contrast, have toe boxes and shanks molded in one piece from thermoplastic elastomeric, a category of resilient synthetics. “In order to offer five different strengths, we use five different elastomerics,” says founder and president Eliza Minden. Each material keeps its strength, not breaking down like traditional shanks. For areas requiring greater flexibility, the elastomeric piece is made thinner.

For a traditional pointe shoe, the box is molded on a last, a shoemaker’s form. The particular last used determines the shape and size of the shoe, so every manufacturer needs many lasts. Although the box and shank are molded beforehand, Gaynor Minden shoes are also constructed on a last, where the satin uppers and foam linings are attached to the elastomeric.

Most traditional shoes have pleating behind the toe platform at the tip of the box. The pleats are created when the single forward satin section is folded in around the box and tucked under the outer sole. Some traditional shoes use foam beneath the pleats, and some manufacturers are creating pleatless models.

Once the shoe has its basic shape, it’s time for refinement. Precise shaping is required to create a smooth, symmetrical box, even pleats and a balanced platform, which allows the shoe to stand up on its own. “Each shoe is balanced by the cobbler to get a perfect platform, so that the dancer doesn’t have to compensate,” says Irene Wilson, president of Grishko USA. Finally, traditional pointe shoes must be heated and aired to cure (harden) the paste boxes.

AURORA DANCEWEAR & COSTUME

12-16 Rufus Business Centre

22 Ravensbury Terrace

Earlsfield, London SW18 4RL United Kingdom

Phone: 44-20-8287-0932

Fax: 44-20-8287-1114

www.auroradancewear.co.uk

E-mail: Thelma@auroradancewear.co.uk

Details: Two models in two widths with a rounded box, plus a shankless model for pre-pointe training. Canvas by special order. Special glue is designed to be long-lasting and mold to the foot. Training model has leather tip and medium shank for flexible

roll-through. Heels are cut high for security. Handmade in China.

BLOCH

1170 Trademark Dr, Ste 112

Reno, NV 89511

Phone: 800-94-BLOCH

Fax: 775-824-2551

www.blochworld.com

Details: Twenty-one models, plus different shank strengths on five models (Strong variation), and full- or 3?4-shank options on one model. Also Demi-Pointe, a shankless model for pre-pointe training. Up to five widths, half-sizes, most models made of all-natural materials. Shank strength dependent on model. Many models feature low-noise paste, and many are made with a pad inside the box at the platform. The MKII series has a padded heel counter, a separate piece of fabric at the heel. ThermoMorph Technology (TMT) models use a heat-activated paste to mold shoes to feet.

New: Protégée is an introductory shoe designed to help support a beginner’s foot and ankle. The shank is graded in strength to facilitate roll-through. Wide platform, tapered box with moderate V-vamp and high sides. TMT Serenade and TMT Sonata have the features of the originals but use TMT paste. Both feature traditional shanks, wide platforms and narrow heels. Sonata has a shorter vamp and a pad in the box; Serenade has a longer U-vamp.

CAPEZIO

One Campus Rd

Totowa, NJ 07512

Phone: 800-982-3397

Fax: 800-522-1222

www.capeziodance.com

E-mail: info@balletmakers.com

Details: Nine models in up to five widths and half-sizes, plus Extra Strength (ES) variations for three models. Range of three shank strengths dependent on model; all shanks are skived (graduated). Three additional strengths and one additional width by special order. Special Make-Up (SMU) shoes may be customized according to specifications including 1?4 sizing; nails and glue; vamp, side and heel heights; and color. SMUs have four-week turnaround time. Shankless model for pre-pointe training also available by special order. Made in the U.S. with natural and synthetic materials including environmentally friendly paste.

CAPULET, LTD.

175 Drury Ln

Covent Garden WC2B 5QF

United Kingdom

Phone: 44-845-060-3190

Fax: 44-700-594-2803

www.capuletworld.com

E-mail: sales@capuletworld.com

U.S. distribution by Sansha

Details: Five models, all available in three shank strengths, three shank lengths (1?2, 3?4, full) and three widths. Three traditional

models with “graded vamp”—vamp length proportional to each size. Boxes are graduated in strength to facilitate demi-pointe.

CHACOTT

44-01 21st St, Ste 302

Long Island City, NY 11101

Phone: 866-MY-FREED

Fax: 718-729-8086

www.freedusa.com

E-mail: info@freedusa.com

Details: Three models in three widths and half-sizes; shank strength dependent on model. All natural materials, with card or leather composition shanks. Lightweight with light box for ease of break-in. First Step is designed for beginners with a medium leather composition shank, sound-absorbing material and attached ribbons. Veronese models can be special ordered in black, white and red.

New: Veronese III is made on the same last as Veronese II, with reinforced side wings. The outer sole is split, with a larger sole portion at the toes and a smaller portion at the heel. Tapered box; V-vamp; full, skived (graduated) medium or hard shank.

COPPELIA – DTC GROUP

Via Orzinuovi, 76

25125 Brescia

Italy

Phone: 39-30-3533-823

Fax: 39-30-3547-323

www.coppelia.com

E-mail: info@coppelia.com

Details: Two models, one with full-, 3?4- and extra-strength shank options, plus a shankless model for pre-pointe training. Two widths. Original model is designed especially for beginners. R-14 is an upgraded design for advanced and professional dancers, with a narrow shape and stronger shank for support and durability.

DANSHUZ BY STYLE QUEEN

539 W Walnut Ave

Orange, CA 92868

Phone: 800-886-7914

Fax: 800-952-9862

www.danshuz.com

Details: One model in two widths, with suede toe and attached ribbons, for student dancers.

FREED OF LONDON, LTD.

44-01 21st St, Ste 302

Long Island City, NY 11101

Phone: 866-MY-FREED

Fax: 718-729-8086

www.freedusa.com

E-mail: info@freedusa.com

Details: Five models in four widths and half-sizes, plus the Demi-Pointe Soft Block shankless model for pre-pointe training. Card shank in two strength choices for Studio line. Choice of short or deep vamp for Classics line. Classics vary according to individual maker; each shoe has a maker’s mark and dancers may request a specific maker. Handmade in the U.K. with natural materials.

FUZI

4704 Pacific Ave SE, Ste A

Lacey, WA 98503

Phone: 888-368-6255

360-786-0226

Fax: 360-915-8703

www.fuzi.net

E-mail: info@fuzi.net

Details: Six models in five widths, plus a shankless model for pre-pointe training. Shank strength dependent on model. Satin models have no side seams for a smoother line. Split sole has split outer sole with hard shank. Canvas model has rough, nonslip sole, V-vamp and 3?4 shank. A special glue layer in box is intended for longevity.

New: Canvas Tip is a satin shoe with canvas at the platform to reduce slipperiness. The platform has no visible pleats. Leather sole and hard brown board shank for support with flexibility for demi-pointe; medium vamp height.

GAMBA

274 Madison Ave

New York, NY 10016

Phone: 800-858-5855

Fax: 212-686-4096

E-mail: repettousa@novalys.com

Details: Three models in three widths, plus the 1?4-shank Delco pre-pointe. Leather soles with carbon fiber shanks, in choice of two strengths. Lightweight (8.1 ounces), with shanks designed for increased “memory” and resistance. Handmade in France.

 

GAYNOR MINDEN, INC.

140 W 16th St

New York, NY 10011

Phone: 800-637-9240

Fax: 212-929-4907

www.dancer.com

E-mail: fitters@dancer.com

Details: Two pleatless models (standard and Sleekfit) in up to three widths. Each model is available in five shank and box strengths and a choice of box shapes; standard model with choice of vamp and heel heights. Suede tips or white satin by special order on either model. Elastomeric (synthetic) shank and box are designed for longevity and will not break down and soften like traditional shanks. Box designed to hold its shape and promote correct alignment. Special linings to absorb impact and increase comfort. Patented fitting kit to customize inside of box.

New: Sole color is now tan instead of previous gray.

GRISHKO

241 King Manor Dr, Ste D

King of Prussia, PA 19406

Phone: 800-474-7454

Fax: 610-239-6441

www.grishko.com

E-mail: info@grishko.com

Details: Ten models in up to five widths and up to three shank strength choices, plus super-hard by special order. Also Elite Pre-Pointe, a shankless model for pre-pointe training. The Pro series features noise-reduction materials. ProFlex also features new-construction shanks designed to be flexible and conform to the foot. Elite has a very square box for short, square toes. Shoes are signed, and dancers may request a particular maker for special orders. Special Make-Up shoes may be customized to most specifications, with a six- to eight-week turnaround time. Made in Russia with natural materials.

New: Fouette Proflex features sound-absorbing Pro technology and additional elasticity in the box, plus a Flex shank in choice of two strengths. Medium V-vamp and medium platform size. Designed for beginners through professionals.

HARMONIE

One Campus Rd

Totowa, NJ 07512

Phone: 800-435-4518

Fax: 800-522-1222

www.harmoniedance.com

E-mail: info@harmoniedance.com

Details: One model, Melody, in three widths with a broader, more generous, fitting to allow room for padding. Graduated, moderate-strength 3?4 shank; feathered wings; half-sizes. Designed to be quiet, responsive and strong. Petal pink color coordinates with Harmonie’s petal pink tights.

KARL-HEINZ MARTIN

Klassische Ballettschuhe

Postafiók 521

H-8601 Siófok

Hungary

Phone: 36-84-887-200

Fax: 36-84-887-201

www.martin-ballettschuhe.com

E-mail: info@martin-ballettschuhe.com

U.S. distribution by Sansha

Details: Four models including the original Eva, a professional shoe handmade in Hungary with natural materials. Designed for easy break-in, with choice of 1?2, 2?3 and 3?4 shanks and a rounded vamp with choice of three vamp lengths.

New: Karla has the features and specifications of Eva, with a roomier box and slightly wider platform. Evita and Carolina are similar in shape to Eva and Karla, respectively, with different shanks to allow for stronger support. Full shanks in flexible, medium and medium-hard; made in China. All models may be special ordered with additional specifications such as vamp heights, V-vamp, shank strengths and different heel heights.


LEO’S DANCEWEAR


1900 N Narragansett Ave

Chicago, IL 60639

Phone: 800-736-LEOS

Fax: 800-736-5330

www.leosdancewear.com

E-mail: info@leosdancewear.com

Details: Three models in four widths, including one model with option of full or 3?4 medium-strength shank. Split Sole has patented split outer sole and full-length red-board shank. Pas de Deux Pointe 1 has “rainbow arch” for conformity to the foot. The Inspiration model comes with a free pair of Leo’s gel toe pads.

LIBERTS

4920 Northpark Loop

Colorado Springs, CO 80918

Phone: 800-624-6480

Fax: 719-592-1526

www.liberts.com

E-mail: feedback@liberts.com

Details: Two models in up to three widths, with suede platform patches for student dancers. Wholesale only, to studios and teachers.

MERLET

565 Roma Ct

Naples, FL 34110

Phone/fax: 800-660-6818

www.merletusa.com

E-mail: info@merletusa.com

Details: Seven models in up to four widths and three shank strengths. Red-board or polycarbonate shanks. Boxes made of natural fibers; some models include plastic resin for strength. Designed to be long-lasting and supple with minimal break-in. Kaliste has stretch canvas heel in both canvas and satin versions. Prelude has soft shank and box for beginners. Made in France.

MIGUELITO’S DANCING SHOES & SUPPLIES, INC.

7315 San Pedro Ave, #3

San Antonio, TX 78216

Phone: 210-349-2573

Fax: 210-349-9610

www.miguelito.com.mx or www.miguelitousa.com

E-mail: migueldancing@sbcglobal.net

Details: Two models in one width, with one shank strength for each model. Compressed paper shank, designed for lightness and roll-through. Professional model has shorter, softer shank than student model, which has a reinforced leather sole and more durable box. Made in Mexico with natural materials.

MIRELLA

1170 Trademark Dr, Ste 112

Reno, NV 89521

Phone: 800-457-0304

Fax: 206-298-0172

www.mirella-dance.com

E-mail: mirella@mirella-dance.com

Details: Three models in three widths and half sizes, designed to be lightweight. Large platform for stability and control on pointe, flat pleats for stability on flat, curved sole and shank designed to support and conform to the arch. The original model, Advance, is intended for pre-professional dancers, with a full, medium-strength shank.

New: Professional is intended for experienced dancers, with a full, medium-strength shank. The insole is glued only to the 2/3 mark, to facilitate modification of the shank. Academie is intended for developing feet, with a firm, full shank and slightly higher vamp and sides for added support.

PORSELLI

Viale Stelvio, 41

20159 Milan

Italy

Phone: 39-02-6081439

Fax: 39-02-6080646

www.porselli.it

E-mail: info@porselli.it

Details: Sixteen models, with perspiration-resistant boxes. One model features a light box for beginners; others feature narrow and wide fittings. Bis has instep elastic for arch support and a tip lined with soft material. Gold features elastic on the back for added support. Shanks can be reinforced for extra strength. Available in peach, black, white, red and light blue.


PRIMA SOFT


213 Old York Rd

Jenkintown, PA 19046

Phone: 215-886-2255

Fax: 215-886-9226

www.prima-soft.com

E-mail: prima@prima-soft.com

Details: Six models in five widths, with fiberboard or red-board shanks and leather or suede soles. Graduated shanks, in strengths dependent on model. All feature “Perfect Placement” toe boxes, designed to position toes straight down for contact with platform and elimination of knuckling. En L’Air is lighter, with more ease in the central metatarsal area, gradual pleating and new box construction for easier transition from demi-pointe to full pointe. Handmade in Russia and Brazil with natural materials.


PRINCIPAL BY CHAN HON GOH, INC.


2345 Main St

Vancouver, BC V5T 3C9

Canada

Phone: 604-688-6836

Fax: 604-688-1687

www.principalshoes.com

E-mail: info@principalshoes.com

Details: Five models in four widths and half-sizes, with shank strength dependent on model. Card shanks with leather inner piece for shank support, cardboard full shank, foam cushion and suede insole for added support and comfort. Available by special order with variations such as shank strengths and vamp heights, and in black, red and blue. Designed by professional dancers with medical consultation to help protect feet from injury.

REPETTO

274 Madison Ave

New York, NY 10016

Phone: 800-858-5855

Fax: 212-686-4096

E-mail: repettousa@novalys.com

Details: Same information as Gamba, plus La Wilis (505), a shoe tailored to fit right and left feet. Handmade

in France.

RUSSIAN POINTE

226 S Wabash Ave, 2nd Fl

Chicago, IL 60604

Phone: 866-R-POINTE

Fax: 312-588-4060

www.russianpointe.com

E-mail: info@russianpointe.com

Details: Ten models in five widths, half-sizes, up to three vamps, up to 11 shank choices (of strength and style) and four colors. Card and pressed leather shanks; shanks in “flexible” range have cut-outs at the sides of the ball of the foot to facilitate roll-through. Handmade in Russia with natural materials.

New: Rubin and Sapfir, in the Jewels Collection, are lightweight, with pleatless platforms and pre-arched shanks with specially treated leather designed to mold to the foot. Both come in a choice of V-vamp without drawstring or U-vamp with drawstring; Rubin has a lower crown and wider platform.

SANSHA

888 8th Ave (at 53rd St)

New York, NY 10019

Phone: 212-246-6212

Fax: 212-246-2138

www.sansha.com

E-mail: sanshanyc@sansha.com

Details: Fourteen models in up to five widths, plus two shankless soft-toe models designed for

pre-pointe training. Four shank strengths and three shank lengths, dependent on model. Fiberboard shank with leather or cellulose sole. Several models available in canvas, or with shank variations (length and strength). One model with leather tips; one lace-up model. Three models with replaceable shanks (for temporary emergency use only). All models with “whisper toe” box padding.

New: Gloria 601 is identical to Ovation 603 and 606, but with a softer, 3?4 shank. Germania 603G is similar to Ovation, with a more tapered box; Germania 609G is similar to Legende, with a more tapered box. Both have 3?4 medium-hard shanks. Debutante D101 is a beginner’s shoe with a moderately tapered box and is based on the Soft-toe USA (DP801) pre-pointe model, but with a lightweight shank for beginning pointework.

SCHACTNER

Wilhelm Schactner, Wtw.

Edelhofgasse 6

Vienna 18

Austria

Phone: 43-1-479-5489

Fax: 43-1-479-6011

Details: One model with both box and heel width choices, four vamp lengths and five shank strengths. Suede tip available. Handmade in Austria. Limited U.S. availability at select retailers.

SÓ DANÇA

320 S Military Trail

Deerfield Beach, FL 33445

Phone: 800-269-5033

Fax: 888-355-0525

www.sodanca.com

E-mail: anne@sodanca.com

Details: Nine models in the Cecelia Kerche line. Up to five widths, up to four shank choices and up to five colors plus three additional colors by special order. Three pre-arched models are designed for three foot shapes. Natural paste designed for noise reduction. Clara is a beginner’s model with full, flexible shank designed for ease of roll-through. Handmade

in Brazil.

THE SUFFOLK POINTE SHOE CO., LTD.

Unit 6 Churchill Works

Highfield St

Earl Shilton

Leicester LE9 7HS

United Kingdom

Phone/fax: 44-1455-442-767

www.suffolkpointe.com

E-mail: suffolkpointe@aol.com

U.S. distribution by Sansha

Details: Two stock models plus The Company Shoe, a custom model for special order in a wide spectrum of specifications. All

in half sizes. Solo, designed to mold to the foot for comfort and support, is available in nine widths and three shank choices, plus the Light version designed to help pointe beginners achieve correct placement.

New: Graduate is intended for advanced dancers who require more flexibility from their shoes. Available in eight widths and two shank choices, Graduate is replacing the previous model Apprentice for U.S. distribution.

SYLVIA TRADING COMPANY

2-23-10 koenji-minami

Suginami-Ku, Tokyo

166-0003

Japan

Phone: 81-3-3315-3100

Fax: 81-3-3314-3769

www.sylvia.co.jp

E-mail: info@sylvia.co.jp

Details: Seven models in up to five widths and half-sizes, plus a shankless model designed for pre-pointe training. One shank strength with two others by special order. Lightweight shoes designed to help dancers get up on pointe. Florina has a nearly square box designed for square toes, with a nylon resin shank for durability. Handmade in Japan.


Jennifer Brewer is a dancer, teacher and freelance writer based in Saco, ME.