Studio to Street: NYCB’s Gilbert Bolden III on His Ever-Evolving Sense of Style
For Gilbert Bolden III, fashion is more than just a form of expression; it’s also become an opportunity for him to delve into the design world. “During [the pandemic] lockdown, I started doing drag, so I began sewing with the intention of making outfits for my drag persona, Ivy Profen,” says the New York City Ballet corps member. He eventually decided to create his own high-fashion–inspired looks—most recently, a white satin corset top, wide-leg pants, and a veiled hat for NYCB’s 2023 spring gala. “The oversized hat is very Schiaparelli 2021 runway, but my inspiration for the outfit was the principal ballerina in Balanchine’s La Valse, with costumes by Karinska,” he shares. “It’s fun taking a classic costume and making it more accessible.”
Red carpet looks aside, Bolden’s day-to-day style depends on his mood. “There are days when I try to meld my masculinity and femininity together, but other days when I pull up to work in baggy pants, a hoodie, glasses on, and I’m just a pile of clothing,” he says. But ultimately, Bolden sees his style choices as an authentic representation of himself. “As I’ve grown older, I’ve slowly developed what I think is my personal style—but it is ever-changing.”
In the studio, Bolden takes a similar approach, apart from two items he’s never without: his mini panda backpack and his custom-leather Bloch shoes. “I love pandas and, for a while, all of the gifts I was getting were panda plushies and things. I got this little panda backpack in maybe 2016, and I’ll bring him along to class and rehearsals with me,” he says. Finding the right shoe was more complicated. Dissatisfied with canvas slippers, he worked with the company’s shoe manager to develop a customized leather pair. “I took a lot of inspiration from NYCB principal Sara Mearns’ pointe shoe—how they’re cut and how they’re shaped on the foot when it’s pointed or on pointe.” The only time Bolden switches out his flats is when he’s taking pointe class. “I started in 2017,” says Bolden, who wears Bloch European Balance pointe shoes. “It really helps me with my day-to-day dancing, because there are all of those little muscles that you need for pointe shoes that aren’t as easily accessed on flat.”
The Details—Street
Jacket: “I bought this suit jacket for our first fall gala coming back from the pandemic, but it didn’t work out.”
T-shirt: “I’m really into oversized right now. This is a XXL white T-shirt that I got for $8 at Target.”
Uniqlo skirt: “This sat in my drawer for about a year before I finally started wearing it,” Bolden recalls. “One day I paired it with the suit jacket and I fell in love with it.”
Calvin Klein boots: “My friend who works in fashion got these samples through work and gave them to me. They’ve been my faves since.”
Telfar bag: “When I wear an all-black-and-white outfit, the pink is a nice pop, but it’s not an outrageous pattern or something that’s hard to style,” Bolden says.
Sunglasses: “These are my Iron Man sunglasses that I found on Amazon. People don’t always know what they’re from, but when they do recognize it, I feel like it’s a little inside joke between us.”
The Details—Studio
Elevé biketard: “I got this during my third year at School of American Ballet. I was collecting things that weren’t just the usual white shirt and black tights that I could eventually wear in a company space.”
Sweatpants: “I picked these up at Marshalls during the pandemic. They’re my favorite pair of sweatpants—there are actually two giant holes on one side because I wear them almost every day.”
Bloch slippers: Bolden’s leather shoes, based on Bloch’s Pump design, have customized split soles. “The original shape has a teardrop sole on the front pad, but they switched it out for what almost looks like a crescent-moon shape cut out of [the bottom of] it. The way my toes are, it just fits perfectly.”
Panda backpack: “It literally only carries my phone, one pair of shoes, and a ChapStick—it’s so small, I can’t even fit both straps on my back.”
